Biarittz/Hossegor on the south-western most coast of France, is a well-known hot spot for surfing in Europe and the destination for my first surf trip in well over a year, and, an opportunity to capture some epic surf photos I’d been curating in my mind for a while.
A Rider looks for the perfect spot to paddle out.
Now, Mother Nature plays a significant role in the world of most sports. The outdoor elements can sometimes make or break your chances of success. Some sports thrive on hostile weather conditions while others need almost perfect days to be experienced, both as a competitor, a spectator and even a photographer.
Surfing however, can be hugely enjoyable in almost any conditions. Most images you see of the surfing lifestyle are of white sandy beaches, bikini clad girls sunning themselves in the sun, and cutbacks throwing the clean ocean water high into the seamless blue skies.
But, to be perfectly honest, some of my most epic and memorable days surfing were in the pouring rain. There is a very calm and eerie feeling that surrounds you when you’re sitting out the back waiting for your set. The ocean seems to settle and relax the swaying of the swell passing under you is like laying in a hammock on a Sunday afternoon and the splash of the raindrops gently hitting the water beside you is the only sound you can hear. Better yet, the hordes have departed, usually leaving only a hand full of the committed to enjoy this Nirvana like state.
I wasn’t too dis-appointed in looking at the upcoming weather reports and finding that I’d be greeted with a week of possible intermittent rain with a few sunny peaks thrown in. Knowing that this type of weather keeps the masses away, and with knowledge there would be a few high-end pro’s around, the chance to capture some inspiring images was well on the cards, so yes, it would be safe to say, I was itching for this trip!
The calm before the summer storm of tourist overcrowding this sleepy surfing village.
Wave forecast was looking great, increasing swell to about 4-5 foot, great I thought, until that was, Mother-Nature had other plans. Not only was she increasing the swell, but everything else was increasing also. Strong wind and heavy rain was predicted, and when it hit that night, everything went seriously sideways! The ocean became angry and fierce and the swell was as random as a lotto draw.
Plan 'B'
Safe to say no-one was heading out and no-one would be heading out in these conditions. This put a stop to my intended visions for shots as this weather pattern was expected to hang around till well after my departure. Initiate Plan B, begin heavy consumption of croissants, coffee and delicate pastries, there’s an up-side to every situation :).
After 5 more days of pretty much the same thing, the final day arrives and inevitably, the wind dies, the rain stops, the oceans calm and leave in their wake, a silky smooth 4-5ft wave. Not huge waves, but more than enough for the pros and locals to pull into a short lived barrel or hit the lip and launch. This was their reward for playing the waiting game all week and being unable to go for a paddle.
With a brief amount of time to play with, I was finally able to break out the camera and try and capture a moment of clarity, however, with the quickly changing tides and incoming storm clouds, everyone knew it would be a short lived respite.
I came away with a series of images that I think turned out much better than I could have hoped for. Mother-Nature provided me with the opportunity to capture the silent beauty of a surf village, an eerily quiet state that is normally bustling with holiday makers, Pro and amateur surfers and a few photographers. It was extremely enjoyable and beautiful to see without the clutter of human’s glow-facing into their smartphones all day.
The reward for the wait.
So, I could’ve viewed this trip as a lost opportunity as I didn’t achieve the desired images I’d envisaged before arriving, however, when dealing with these kinds of sports it’s important to remember that you have to play with the hand you’re dealt. Mother-Nature doesn’t always play by your rules. Go with the flow, get out there as much as you can and be ready at any given moment, that perfect shot isn’t always the one you thought of, it quite often is the one Mother-Nature curated for you.
The reward for the wait.